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As winter fades and warmer days approach, your lawn is waking up—and what you do now sets the tone for the whole season. A few smart treatments before real heat arrives can mean the difference between a lush, green yard and a thin, weedy one.

Clear and Check

Start by giving your lawn a quick reset:

• Rake up leaves, sticks, and leftover thatch so sunlight and air can reach the soil.
• Note bare or thin spots you may want to overseed later. A clean surface helps everything you apply work better.

Test and Treat the Soil

Healthy lawns start with balanced soil.

• Do a soil test to learn your pH and nutrient levels.
• Most cool-season grasses common in zone 7a do best around pH 6.0–7.0.

If your soil is too acidic, apply lime; if it’s too alkaline, sulfur-based products may help. Adjusting pH early gives these amendments time to work before summer stress.

Block Weeds Early

A pre-emergent herbicide is one of your best tools against crabgrass and other annual weeds.

• Apply when soil temps are about 55°F for several days in a row—often early March to mid-April.
• Follow the label and water it if directed.

If you plan to overseed, be careful: most pre-emergents also prevent grass seed from sprouting. Either delay the herbicide or choose a product labeled safe for seeding.

Feed, Don’t Force

As the grass greens up, it needs nutrition—but not a huge nitrogen blast.

• Use a balanced, moderate fertilizer (or a slow-release/organic option) based on your soil test.
• Avoid over-fertilizing, which creates weak, fast growth that struggles in heat.

Relieve Compaction and Overseed

If the lawn feels hard or puddles form, your soil may be compacted.

• Core aeration in early spring can improve air, water, and nutrient flow.
• Pair aeration with over-seeding thin areas using a grass blend suited to zone 7a and your sun/shade conditions.

Keep new seed consistently moist until established—and remember the conflict with standard pre-emergents.

Support With Good Habits

The basics still matter as warm weather arrives:

• Mow high (about 3–4 inches for cool-season grasses) to shade the soil and discourage weeds.
• Water deeply but infrequently once growth is steady, instead of light daily watering.

By cleaning up, balancing your soil, blocking weeds, feeding wisely, and fixing compaction or bare spots now, you give your zone 7a lawn a strong start. A little effort before the heat hits pays off in a thicker, greener, more resilient lawn all summer long.

When do ticks start to become active? Earlier than you’d think!

On Long Island, ticks don’t just show up in summer. They often become active in March, as soon as temperatures regularly rise above 40°F. Mild winters, damp leaf litter, and plenty of wildlife mean blacklegged (deer) ticks and other species can start questing for hosts long before the hot weather arrives, even with our recent cold snap.

Tick season here is really a long stretch, not a short window. Adult deer ticks wake up on mild days in late winter and early spring. In late spring and summer, tiny nymphs—responsible for many Lyme disease cases—are active, along with lone star and American dog ticks. In fall, adult deer ticks surge again and stay active until it’s consistently below freezing. Even in winter, a warm, snow-free day can bring some activity.

In March, you’ll most often encounter ticks along wooded trails, forest edges, leaf litter, brush piles, and overgrown yard borders, especially where deer, mice, and birds are common. Even tidy yards can have ticks if they border woods or attract wildlife.

You don’t have to avoid the outdoors, but you should treat March as the start of tick season. Use an EPA-registered repellent on exposed skin, consider permethrin-treated clothing, wear long pants and sleeves when you can, and choose light-colored fabrics to spot ticks more easily. After spending time outside, check your body carefully—behind knees, around the waist, under arms, around ears, and at the hairline—and shower soon after. Check pets daily and keep them on vet-recommended tick prevention.

In early spring, clean up leaf piles and brush, keep grass trimmed, and, if possible, create a wood-chip or gravel border between woods and lawn to reduce tick habitat. If you find an attached tick, remove it promptly with fine-tipped tweezers, clean the area, note the date, and watch for rash, fever, or flu-like symptoms. On Long Island, once March brings regular mild days, tick season has already begun, so a few simple habits can make a big difference in staying protected.

February is when gardeners quietly set the stage for spring. Even in cold climates, there’s plenty to do.

First, plan. Review last year’s wins and losses, sketch your beds and containers, and plan a simple crop rotation for vegetables.

Next, order what you need. Take stock of old seeds, then order the vegetables, herbs, and flowers you want. Restock seed-starting mix, trays, labels, compost, fertilizer, and tune up your tools.

Then, start seeds indoors. Using your last frost date as a guide, start peppers, eggplants, some tomatoes, onions, leeks, and early flowers in a seed-starting mix under good light. Label everything to keep track of varieties.

Prune while plants are dormant. Remove dead or crossing branches from trees and shrubs, but skip early spring bloomers until after they flower. In mild areas, you can prune roses now; in colder ones, wait a bit longer.

Do some light cleanup. Pull spent annuals and diseased material, and throw the diseased parts in the trash. Weed on mild days, but leave some stems and leaf litter in place to shelter overwintering beneficial insects.

Prepare beds where possible. If the soil isn’t frozen or soggy, spread compost and any needed amendments, and avoid walking on very wet ground so you don’t compact it. Adjust mulch so plant crowns don’t stay constantly wet but still have some protection.

In mild climates, you can begin planting. Direct-sow peas, salad greens, radishes, and some root crops, and set out hardy plants like kale and cabbage under row covers or other protection.

Check containers and perennials. Make sure pots drain well, repair or replace damaged containers, and gently firm back any plants that have been heaved up by freeze–thaw cycles. Top-dress with compost to give them a boost.

Indoors, tend to houseplants. Watch for pests and treat them early, water sparingly according to winter needs, rotate pots for even growth, and wipe dust from leaves so they can better use available light.

Finally, use the quiet time to learn and dream. Read about gardening, connect with other gardeners, and set a few clear goals for the season. A little planning, pruning, seed starting, and soil care in February will make the rest of your gardening year more productive and enjoyable.

Winter storms routinely dump ice and snow on trees and branches. Falling branches and trees can destroy cars and homes and knock out power. If a particularly bad storm hits, there can be a long wait for licensed tree service companies to address the damage.

Many Long Island tree service professionals agree that prevention is key to protecting your property from tree damage during a winter storm.

Know the Signs of a Weak Tree

You should routinely inspect your trees throughout the year, especially after storms or heavy winds. Watch for visible signs of decay, such as mushrooms growing at the base of the tree or dead and hanging branches.

Not All Trees Are Created Equal

Certain trees are more likely to fall during a winter storm than others. Silver maple hybrids and fast-growing trees, such as poplars and cottonwoods, are more likely to fail in a storm due to their brittle wood. When planting these trees, avoid placing them too close to structures or power lines.

For stronger, more storm-resistant options, consider planting hardwoods such as oaks and maples.

Tree Pruning Is Important

Regular tree pruning helps keep problematic branches from endangering your property. If you notice a weak or broken branch, consider calling a local tree trimming company or certified arborist before a storm to assess any potentially hazardous trees.

Pruning at an early age can help a tree develop a strong structure and prevent damage caused by storms. However, homeowners often neglect pruning young trees because they assume there’s no immediate threat to their property.

Pruning can be done any time of year, but there is an advantage to assessing a tree when its leaves are off.

Fall leaves are more than just a chore waiting to be raked—they’re nature’s free resource; ripe for creativity, sustainability, and fun. Here are some delightful alternatives to raking your leaves into lifeless piles.

1. Make Leaf Mulch or Compost

Shred leaves and spread them over your garden beds as mulch. This naturally fertilizes your soil and protects plants from frost. Or, add them to your compost bin for nutrient-rich compost next spring.

2. Create Leaf Mold

Pile up leaves, moisten them, and let them decompose for a year. The result? Leaf mold: an excellent soil conditioner for gardens.

3. Shelter for Wildlife

Leave leaves in garden corners or under trees. They provide habitats for insects, overwintering butterflies, spiders, and even small mammals like hedgehogs and chipmunks.

4. Craft Projects

Gather colorful leaves for art: make garlands, wreaths, pressed-leaf bookmarks, or framed seasonal displays with kids or for home decor.

5. Insulate Plants and Beds

Use leaves as a protective blanket over perennials or sensitive plants to help them weather winter temperatures.

6. Leaf Piles for Play

Sometimes, the best thing to do is…nothing! Leave a pile for jumping, tossing, and having classic autumn fun with family and pets.

7. Pathway Padding

Spread leaves over garden paths to reduce mud and help prevent weeds.

Final Thoughts: Before you haul leaves to the curb, consider their broader benefits. By leaving leaves where they fall or repurposing them, you nourish your landscape and support the ecosystem right in your yard. Nature does know best—let’s follow her lead!

If your shrubs and trees suffered during spring and summer—due to pests, diseases like fungal infections, or burrowing insects that damaged fruit trees and other garden plants—consider using dormant winter spray treatments.

‘Dormant spray’ broadly refers to applications like horticultural oil, which smothers overwintering insects such as aphids, mites, and scale, along with their eggs. Another type uses synthetic fungicides or copper to treat fruit and flowering trees and shrubs, giving your plants a healthy start in spring. Sometimes, liquid lime-sulfur is applied to smaller fruit plants, such as blueberries or blackberries, to control fungi and bacteria.

Dormant sprays should be applied after the growing season, but before temperatures drop below 40°F. While a pre-winter treatment can suppress spring pests, it may not provide complete control. Regular treatments throughout the year may be necessary for optimal plant health.

Common dormant sprays include:

• Fixed copper fungicides containing elemental copper, such as tribasic copper sulfate, copper oxychloride sulfate, or cupric hydroxide
• Neem oil is derived from the seeds of the neem tree (Azadirachta indica)
• Lime-sulfur, a mixture of hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) and sulfur
• A crucial but often overlooked step in keeping trees and shrubs healthy is good housekeeping—regardless of whether you use dormant sprays. Remove fallen leaves from around your plants to prevent pests from laying eggs or overwintering, as they can also spread disease to other plants and undermine your disease control efforts.

If you live in USDA Zone 7 (Long Island is both 7a and 7b, depending on how far east you are), October is the perfect time to plant a wide variety of spring-flowering bulbs. Cooler temperatures and moist soil create ideal conditions for these bulbs to establish strong roots before winter sets in. Here’s a guide to some of the best bulbs to plant this month in Zone 7:

1. Tulips Tulips come in nearly every color and shape imaginable, making them a perennial favorite. For longer-lasting flowers and stronger plants, choose varieties labeled as perennial tulips.

2. Daffodils (Narcissus) Daffodils are reliable, deer-resistant spring bloomers. Plant them at least 6 inches deep and give them full or partial sun.

3. Hyacinths Hyacinths offer fragrant, bold blooms in shades of blue, purple, pink, and white. Plant these bulbs 4-6 inches deep for best results.

4. Crocuses Among the earliest bloomers, crocuses bring color to gardens when winter’s end is barely in sight. They’re also ideal for naturalizing in lawns and under trees.

5. Alliums Known for their striking globes of purple or white flowers, add architectural interest to spring beds.

6. Grape Hyacinths (Muscari) These petite bulbs produce clusters of tiny blue or white flowers perfect for border plantings and walkways.

7. Snowdrops (Galanthus) If you love a very early splash of delicate white, snowdrops are for you! Plant them in clumps for the best visual impact.

Planting Tips for Zone 7

• Plant bulbs when the soil temperature drops below 60°F (typically in mid-to-late October).

• Place bulbs with the pointed end up and follow planting depth guidelines for each variety.

• Water thoroughly after planting.

• Mulch with a light layer to insulate against winter temperature swings.

By planning and planting your bulbs in October, you set the stage for a spectacular, colorful spring garden. Happy planting!

Hurricane season can be a challenging time for gardeners and plant lovers. The strong winds and heavy rains can wreak havoc on your beloved plants. However, with some preparation, you can help safeguard them against the storm’s fury. Here are some practical tips to protect your plants during a hurricane:

1. Bring Potted Plants Indoors

If you have potted plants, the easiest way to protect them is to bring them inside. Find a safe spot away from windows and doors to prevent any damage from flying debris. If you have a lot of plants, consider grouping them in a garage or shed.

2. Secure Your Garden

For plants that are planted directly in the ground, try to secure them by staking or tying them down. Use sturdy stakes to anchor taller plants, especially those that are more susceptible to wind damage. This can help prevent them from toppling over.

3. Mulch Around Plants

Adding a layer of mulch around your plants can help protect their roots from flooding. Mulch acts as a barrier, reducing soil erosion and retaining moisture, which can be helpful if heavy rains cause waterlogged soil.

4. Trim and Prune

Before a hurricane hits, take some time to trim back any weak or overgrown branches. This reduces the surface area for wind to catch and minimizes the risk of branches breaking and damaging your plants.

5. Create Windbreaks

If you have larger plants or trees, consider creating windbreaks using burlap or other materials to shield smaller plants from the wind. This can help reduce wind speed around your more vulnerable plants.

6. Check Drainage

Ensure that your garden has proper drainage to prevent flooding during heavy rains. Clear any clogged drains or gutters to allow water to flow freely away from your plants.

7. Post-Storm Care

After the storm has passed, assess the damage and act as needed. Remove any debris and check for signs of stress on your plants. Prune away any damaged leaves or branches to encourage new growth.

By taking these steps, you can help protect your plants from the harsh conditions of a hurricane. Remember, preparation is key! Stay safe and happy gardening!

The spotted lanternfly, an invasive pest native to Southeast Asia, has become a significant concern on Long Island in recent years. This striking insect is easily recognizable due to its gray wings adorned with black spots and a vibrant red underbelly. It primarily feeds on the sap of various trees, with a particular preference for the Tree of Heaven, but it doesn’t stop there; it also targets fruit trees and hardwoods.

The impact of the spotted lanternfly is concerning, as its feeding can weaken trees, making them more susceptible to diseases and other pests. Furthermore, the honeydew it produces creates a sticky substance that can lead to the growth of sooty mold, harming plants and turning outdoor spaces into a nuisance for residents.

If you happen to spot a spotted lanternfly, it’s important to act quickly. Start by taking a clear photo for identification purposes and then, if it’s safe to do so, squash the insect to prevent it from spreading. Reporting your sighting to the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets is crucial, as it helps authorities track and manage the infestation. Additionally, keep an eye out for egg masses—which are gray and waxy—resembling a smear of mud on smooth surfaces. If you find any, scrape them off and dispose of them in a sealed plastic bag to prevent them from hatching.

To help prevent the spread of this pest, take a proactive approach. Before traveling, inspect your vehicles for any lanternflies or their egg masses, and avoid moving firewood from one location to another, as it can harbor pests. Educating your neighbors and friends about the spotted lanternfly’s impact is also a valuable step in the collective effort to control this invasive species.

The spotted lanternfly poses a serious threat to Long Island’s ecosystem and agriculture. By staying informed and taking swift action upon sighting one, you can play a vital role in protecting our environment. Remember, every little effort counts in the fight against this invasive species!

As summer arrives, so do mosquitoes, bringing the risk of diseases like West Nile Virus and Eastern Equine Encephalitis (EEE). While the overall threat is low, Long Island residents need to be cautious, especially those who are pregnant, young, or immunocompromised.

First, eliminate standing water around your home. Remove stagnant water from birdbaths, flower pots, and clogged gutters to reduce the number of mosquito breeding sites.

When spending time outdoors, apply EPA-registered mosquito repellents containing DEET or picaridin. This is especially important during dawn and dusk when mosquitoes are most active.

Wearing light-colored long sleeves and pants can help make you less visible to mosquitoes, which are attracted to dark colors. 

Regularly maintain your yard by trimming grass and bushes to eliminate resting places for mosquitoes. 

Finally, stay informed about local health advisories and community efforts to control mosquito populations. 

By taking these simple precautions, you can enjoy summer on Long Island without worrying about annoying—and potentially dangerous—mosquito bites!